Costume Jewellery is essentially a 20th-century term for jewellery made from non-precious materials, such as imitation gemstones and faux pearls, set in silver or inexpensive base metals. Costume Jewellery was often mass produced, with each new piece designed to accessorise the new seasons style. The majority of it was never meant to last a long time, or represent a financial investment, like fine jewellery. However, much of the jewellery made is now considered highly collectable and just a precious as its counterpart.
Victorian Jewellery: 1837 - 1901
The Victorian period was named after Queen Victoria. Sentiment and romance was a significant factor in Victorian jewellery, symbolic motifs such a hearts, crosses, knots and horseshoes were popular, materials varied, silver, gold, paste, steel, and jet were among those used. In 1861, Prince Albert died, causing Queen Victoria to go into mourning, the Queen ordered the royal court to wear black, which created a demand for mourning jewellery. Mourning jewellery is typically black, initially is was made from Jet, which is fossilized coal that was mined in Whitby, hence the name Whitby Jet. Other materials used were French Jet, which is black glass.
Edwardian Jewellery: 1890-1920
Edward VII ascened the throne in 1901, this was a time known for ostenation and extravagance, although as time moved on jewellery became less of a statement. In the 1900's lavish jewellery had made a u-turn and platinum, diamonds and pearls were prevalent, however, cheaper materials such as paste were worn by the less wealthy. Some common motifs for this period are good luck symbols, horseshoes, wishbones, doves, hearts, wreaths, ribbons, bows, flowers, peacocks and stars.
Art Nouveau: 1895 - 1910 Art Nouveau was influenced by the aestheticism of the late nineteenth century. The designs of the jewellery were characterized by a sensuality of the designs. Jewellery took on the forms of the female figure, butterflies, dragonflies, dragonflies, peacocks, snakes, wasps, swans, bath, orchids, irises and other exotic flowers. Various materials were used including horn, ivory, tortoiseshell, carved glass, gold and silver. The use of rhinestones were limited, the stones were used to accent the jewellery rather than over power it. Enameling was a popular technique used during this time.
Art Deco: 1920 - 1930
The idea behind the Art Deco movement was that form follows function. The style was characterized by simple, straight, clean lines, stylized motifs, geometric shapes and streamlined curves. Materials often used were chrome, rhodium, pot metal, glass, rhinestones, Bakelite and celluloid. The 1920's is often called the 'White Period', because the metal used was a variety of white metals such as pot metal and base metals, and the prominet stones where clear rhienstones. Czechoslovakian jewellery was also popular during this period.
Retro: 1939 - 1950
World War II impacted the world of fashion. Reflecting the world around them, the designers often created desgins that had a militraistic feeling to it. Bakelite, celluloid, Lucite and Sterling often dipped in a gold wash know as vermeil were popular materials. Motifs included bows, ribbons, birds, flower, American flags, airplanes, and eagles.
1950's and 1960's
The 1950's saw the rise of jewellery that was made purely of rhinestones. The stones had become the basis of necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches. In 1955, the aurora borealis rhinestone was introduced. By knowing when this stone was first made, a collector then knows that a piece of jewellery containing an aurora borealis stone could not have been made before 1955. In the early 1960 large bold rhinestones pieces were no longer in Vogue, they were replaced with smaller, more delicate gold-tone metal and faux pearls with only a hint of rhinestones. Toward the end of the 1960's there was a movement back to mother nature and the 'hippie' look was born, this 'look' was accessorized with beads, large pendants and occasionally big bold rhinestones.
Extracts taken from Costume Jewellery by Leigh Leshner & Costume Jewellery by Judith Miller